This Week's Obsession: Fine Jewellery Trends 2022
We love checking the lists of jewellery trends for 2022. Lists abound from the Hottest Trends in Vogue to the Top 4 Trends from Net-a-Porter.
Fortunately, we see several areas of commonality amongst them all. The first one is Colour, bright coloured gems, even bright plastic jewellery will be on-trend for 2022. Hardware continues to be a trend this year from chunky necklaces and bracelets, unlike in years past we'll see these pieces include embellishments such as diamonds, enamel and semi-precious stones to add colour. Mixing your metals is on-trend for 2022, which is good because we love it and recommend it. You may remember or last 'Weekly Obsession' was about bangles and we love mixing rose, white, yellow and black gold. And of course, taking towards a more sustainable approach to making and buying jewellery makes this year's list.
Kaleidoscopic colour
Color is the strongest trend and has been for the past three or so years. It just keeps getting bolder, more vibrant and optimistic as we look towards a brighter future. The trend for bold, make-you-smile colour will continue to be all the rage in jewellery this year.Technicolor brights are taking over, as diamonds share their throne with a rainbow of precious and semi-precious stones with eye-catching hues that bring joy to fingers, lobes and necks. Whatever your colours, there’s a gem to suit; from the lush emeralds and fiery rubellites of Fernando Jorge’s native Brazil, to the sapphires, tourmalines and lapis lazuli that Elizabeth Gage sets in bands of textured gold. Retrouvaí clashes pastel-pink tourmaline with duck-egg-blue trolleite, while Emily P. Wheeler combines Barbie-pink sapphires with equally vivid enamel. “Choose colors that light up your face and complement your skin tone,” advises Melissa Kaye, whose diamond-edged designs range from dusty pastels to neon brights, described by the jeweller as “universally flattering”. We love LeSter’s use of colour in ….
If you are looking for coloured gemstones that are off the beaten path, we suggest looking at Eva Gems & Jewels in the Covett Vault. Eva loves what she calls juicy gemstones and enjoys bringing colour to life.
Eva Gems and Jewels Extreme Measures featuring sphene and rhodolite garnet.
On the runway, Summer camp-inspired jewellery tends to return during the hot weather season — but why wait when you can sport elevated accessories with nostalgic pops of colour right now? The Y2K revival is the gift that keeps on giving, and candy-like raver-worthy baubles adorned spring/summer 2022 runways at Anna Sui, Coach and Brandon Maxwell, to name a few.
Chains and links
Chains are not slowing down—even with gold going up. They are still statement making, buttery yellow gold with a nod toward old watch fob chains and seventies style rectangular elongated chains with a beautiful hand and weight.
This season, designers are finding new ways to elevate the chunky gold chain necklace. “Jewellers are embellishing this classic look by studding links with diamonds, incorporating semi-precious stones and adding splashes of enamel,” says NET-A-PORTER fine jewellery and watches buyer Edwina Hilton. Lauren Rubinski’s distinctive glossy gold links are seen on the world’s most stylish necks and wrists. This season, she has upped the ante by daubing them with multicoloured neon enamel. Jade Trau separates her industrial-chic links with brilliant-cut diamonds; Foundrae elevates an everyday gold bracelet with connectors set with 1.56 carats of pavé diamonds; and Marie Lichtenberg fastens her oversized chains with neon-bright enamel clasps, decorated with protective symbols. Whether worn over a plain T-shirt or with an oversized blazer, the embellished chain is set to become the hardest-working item in your new-season jewellery wardrobe.
Larger-than-life links are among the top 2022 jewellery trends, as seen on the runways at Valentino and Hermès, to name a few. This season, go with oversized gold chains that make a bold statement solo or when layered with other over-the-top pieces.
Embellished chains are having a moment, says Libby Page, senior market editor at Net-a-Porter, with brands such as Gigi Clozeau, Pascale Monvoisin, Brent Neale and Sydney Evan becoming ever more creative by adding pops of colour and experimenting with new materials such as ceramics and studding links with diamonds or other precious stones.
The ancient embellishment of body chains has reappeared throughout fashion history, including more recently in the ’70s and ’00s — and now. Acne Studios, Blumarine and Marni are among those who sent below-the-neck accessories down spring 2022 runways.
We love gold chains and large medallions, like those created by Ouroborous, The chains can be worn solo or layered with and without pendants. Like the Ouroboros Hero Pendant.
Maximalism
What’s better than one Suzanne Kalan cuff? An entire wristful of them, in every color of the rainbow. “The art of layering still dominates in the jewelry world – more is definitely more,” confirms Edwina Hilton. Stack bracelets alongside your watch; layer necklaces, pendants and chains to create an eclectic look; and combine multiple hoops and studs for a unique ear stack. When you think enough is enough, add a little more. Shay’s embellished chokers are the perfect starting point for a décolletage dripping in diamonds, add a gold chain by Jade Trau, Anita Ko’s contemporary take on a rivière necklace, or a belcher chain strung with talismanic pendants by Foundrae. On the wrist, chunky chains and slender bangles will avoid an unsightly tangle, and on the lobes, layer hoops of all shapes and sizes. “Don’t be afraid to mix metals, colors and brands to curate your unique, individual look,” says Hilton. “The beauty of this trend is that there is no right or wrong way to style it.”
Are you team gold or silver? Minimalism or maximalism? Symmetry or asymmetry? The good news is you can be anything you like in 2022. The rule is, there are no rules. Finematter’s Ejdrup says mixing your metals is on-trend in 2022, whether that’s in layering pieces or in a single two-tone piece as at Charlotte Chesnais, Delfina Delettrez or the ultimate mixed-metal classic, Cartier’s Trinity. Page adds that 2021’s neck mess trend is set to continue with a “more is more” approach through mixing and matching as many styles as possible, including chunky chains and pendants from the likes of Lauren Rubinski and Anita Ko.
We love Alice van Cal for combining several trends as she layers her Alice pendants and bangles mixing colours of stones, and colours of metals. Our favourite is the rainbow union bracelet, in rose gold.
Bold statement pieces
Fashion’s ’70s and ’80s influence (see Saint Laurent spring/summer 2022) encourages the rejection of delicate, barely-there jewellery in favour of the unapologetically bold statement piece. For Threads Styling’s VIP customers this translates to big-ticket statement jewellery from independent fine jewellery designers like Suzanne Kalan and Nikos Koulis. “People are dressing up again and want to have fun after the last two years,“ says Quy. For those of us with smaller wallets, there are plenty of ways to make a statement, whether in the form of a colourful earring or eye-catching sculptural ring.
From chandelier earrings to door-knocker statement pieces that nod to the Golden Age of Hollywood, vintage-inspired accessories were all over models’ lobes at Giorgio Armani, Fendi and Saint Laurent.
Our favourite in this category is The Rock Hound for creating statement pieces that imbue colour and design for eye catching looks.
Our favourite our her Chromanteq Earrings for a statement that can't be missed.
Charms, beads, and talismans
Designers keep adding new charms and medallions with meaning to their jewellery arsenal. Jewelry that represents everything from spiritual to sentimental to pieces that are connected to guidance, strength, luck, love and project continue to take shape in different incarnations and distinctive designer’s collections.
Lucky charms, evil eyes and hamsa hand amulets were spotted as jewellery at Stella McCartney and Markarian. Simple pendant necklaces will never go out of style, so why not add a few symbolic pieces to your jewellery mix? (Plus, they play well with maximalist chokers and charmed accessories this season.)
Plastic jewels
Our love of a playful jewel shows no sign of abating. Citing 2021’s Gen Z plastic fantastic trend, MatchesFashion’s Wisdom says novelty pieces were previously only popular in fashion jewellery but now it’s the case in fine jewellery, too, with elevated novelty pieces from the likes of Alison Lou and Yvonne Leon doing well.
“We’ve seen an increasing interest in personalised pieces – a mix of initials, zodiac signs and birthstones. They are an excellent conversation starter,” says Miranda Rose Williams, VP of designer relationships at Finematter. It’s all about finding the piece that resonates with you, says Quy, whether that be Marie Lichtenberg’s Love You To The Moon And Back locket or stacking your choice of Ananya’s colourful chakra bracelets.
Large stone set rings
Perhaps the opposite of the plastic-jewellery trend is this: large stone-set rings. This look is all about multiple stones set in a large ring, essentially. Quy says, "Designers are starting to go big with the stones they're using, making bolder designs often set in bigger statement pieces."
Big stones/pendants
Carrying on the large stone set ring theme, necklaces are also getting the supersized treatment. Quy cites Harwell Godfrey's "amazing new pendants," Jacquie Aiche's eye pendants and Bayco's mega cuffs as pieces to invest in. She also says to look out for "really fun, big pieces with colourful stones, emeralds, opals and coloured sapphires."
We love Zeemou Zeng's Malachite Eye Pendant, bold in size and colour.
And Myriam Soseilos for her use of coloured sapphires in the Falcon Pendant
Rivière necklaces
Rivière in French means river which in the 19th century translated into river of gems. These necklaces have been popular from the 1800s on in a variety of incarnations. Today they are worn two or more at a time, sometimes with a pendant necklace. Two proponents of the modern day wearing of rivière in multiples are Anna Wintour and Sarah Jessica Parker in real life and in the reboot of SATC. They also look stunning when worn alone and contemporary versions are often called eternity necklaces as the stones go all the way around the necklace.
We love how Alice van Cal created a versatile rivière necklace, with her Dusk to Dawn Tennis Necklace, that can be worn as a rainbow or diamond version - or a bit of both.
or Covett has a 6-carat diamond tennis necklace that's goes from jeans to a little black dress easily.
Line bracelets
The bracelet once called the line bracelet in the 1920s with its row of diamonds and or gemstones was popular all throughout the 20th century in different settings and size and cuts of gemstones. It wasn’t until Chris Evert lost hers on the court in 1978 during a match that the bracelet received the moniker that still describes it today—the tennis bracelet. Versions over the last few years are more daring in the mix of cuts, bolo closures and settings. It’s a piece of jewellery, whatever your style that should work into your daily rotation.
Always a favourite that can be worn from daytime to evening, we love the Picchiotti Xpandable diamond bracelet
as well as Banaut's diamond rivière bracelet.
Sources include:
Net-a Porter, The 4 Key Jewellery Trends of 2022
